Monday, October 9, 2023
Miles: 31.96
Elevation gain/loss: 5098’/6726′
After decent sleep, I was up at 4:55am and hiking by 5:25am after saying goodbye to Uno and Chopchop. I was at the North Kaibab TH by 5:45 to join the line of people heading for the South Rim. As I descended, I passed a ton of people, and only got passed by 2 trail runners. The mostly-flat approach to the Colorado River took a lot longer on N Kaibab than S Kaibab, and I was ready for a break when I arrived at Phantom Ranch. I stopped there for 15 minutes around 10:30am, drinking a liter of water and eating two little bags of kettle-cooked plain potato chips. A squirrel tried to walk away with my chip bag multiple times, and I had to chase it away while hopping on one foot since it struck while I was adjusting my sock. I then headed out to hike the 7 unshaded miles with no water up the South Kaibab trail.
It was much quieter than N Kaibab had been, but it was a mean stairstepper, with awkwardly big steps. I was glad of a thunderstorm (no rain) as I ascended, blocking out the harsh sun for perhaps an hour. Partway up, I had to stop and wait for an 8-mule train to drop dirt on trail to fill in holes made by the rain. I made it to the South Rim by 2pm, and continued forward a few miles to the trail split (with some bushwhacking to get back onto the AZT after a trail lead me astray), to take a detour to the market through the Mather campground. I resupplied and ate dinner.
I was tired and thinking of town, so I was looking at Tusayan, a town directly next to the trail. I managed to find a cheap motel in Tusayan; I called and they had a room available for me! I asked them to hold the room and I walked the trail/bike path the remaining 6 miles to town. I was in town by 6:45pm, and stocked up on dinner and breakfast at a gas station before heading to the motel. I was showered and in a soft bed by 9pm.
Transcending Mountains 