Monday, June 8, 2026
35.7 miles, 3346′ gain/2822′ loss.
Max altitude: 10,250′
I was awake by 5am at Cumbres Pass, and started hiking on the paved road by 5:35am after using the privy nearby. The road was windy and a little hilly, but not too bad especially early in the morning before it got sunny and hot. I saw my first and only marmots of this entire trip, ensconced next to someone’s driveway. The traffic was picking up as I got closer to the dirt road turn-off, and I was glad to make it to the Red Bear Haus by 9:45am for 2nd breakfast.
I sat inside to charge my phone while I waited on a breakfast burrito and drank a soda. They had very nice bathrooms, and even offer laundry and showers to campers and hikers. I had realized on my morning walk that there was a solid chance I could make it all the way to Platoro, a tiny town 20 miles up the dirt road, where I could stay in a CDT-specific hiker cabin at an RV campground with wifi, electricity, and showers. I decided it was worth it, as a reward for pushing myself that far. I called them and let them know I’d be there tonight! I had a quick morning phone call with my partner, and then headed up the dirt road by 10:30am.
The road is in the Rio Grande National Forest, paralleling the Conejos River. It leads past ranches, campgrounds, and small mining towns turned summer recreation locations. There was somewhat frequent traffic on the road, and I quickly grew weary of being coated in dust by passing vehicles. Most of them would slow down to pass me, which I deeply appreciated. There was almost no shade on the road and the sun quickly became very hot. But at least there was periodic access to the river, which was flowing clear and cold.
I passed by a small collection of houses, and even saw an old-school phone booth that likely still is connected! The road was endlessly uphill, but heading up the valley gave me increasingly better views. I started seeing more snow on the mountain ridges above me, and counted my lucky stars for planning this route instead of the high route. By the end of the day, my feet were hurting quite a bit.
But I made crazy good time, arriving in Platoro by 6pm, stayed in the Great Divide Cabin. The camp store didn’t have much interesting food, but I got some chips and soda and an ice cream bar. And I then got to shower, handwash some clothes, and charge my phone while enjoying wifi.
